“Snow Eggs” by James Hemings

James Hemings's recipe for "Snow Eggs" written out by Jefferson's granddaughter, Virginia. Image courtesy Papers of Trist and Burke Family Members, MSS 5385-f, Special Collections, University of Virginia Library.

James Hemings was an enslaved man and the first American to learn classic French cuisine. He helped popularize many of the dishes you know and love today.

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About James Hemings

James Hemings was born enslaved in 1765. He was the second child of his mother, Elizabeth Hemings. He was fathered by John Wayles, her captor, who forced Elizabeth Hemings to be his partner after his third wife passed (Monticello). This made James Hemings the younger half-brother to Jefferson's wife. He was also the brother of Sally Hemings, an enslaved woman who eventually became forced to bear at least six children with Thomas Jefferson (Monticello). When he was nine years old, he was brought to Monticello, the primary plantation of Founding Father Thomas Jefferson, who eventually became the third president of the U.S.

In 1784, when he was 19 years old, he was taken to France with President Jefferson to be trained as a chef. He didn’t only learn French cuisine, but learned how to read and write in English and speak French –extremely rare opportunities for an enslaved person during that time. By the time he was 21, he was running the kitchen at Jefferson’s Paris residence (Atlas Obscura). He brought what he learned back to the U.S. upon their return, and continued to act as a chef at Monticello and a personal cook for Jefferson on the road.

Hemings negotiated his freedom of enslavement from Jefferson, by agreeing to train a chef to take his place. In 1796, he left Monticello as a free man. From there, he traveled across the U.S. – and possibly Europe – as a cook. When Jefferson was elected president in 1801, he asked Hemings to run his kitchen at the White House. Hemings, who was employed at a restaurant in Baltimore during that time, wanted a formal offer that reflected his experience, but Jefferson didn’t agree (Atlas Obscura). Although little of his life is known after the time he left Monticello, it’s reported that he died by suicide in 1801.

Unfortunately, because of enslavement, there is little documentation about Hemings’ life. He never married or had children. There are some suggestions, however, that he had a fluid sexuality (Atlas Obscura). Many of his contributions were also misattributed. He is known to have brought a dish called “macaroni pie,” a mix of cheese and pasta, from France to the U.S., but this recipe was largely attributed to Thomas Jefferson's cousin, Mary Randolph, because she put it in her cookbook. A handwritten list of kitchen supplies inventory that Hemings wrote sometime before he left Monticello is currently in the Library of Congress. The snow eggs recipe was recorded by Thomas Jefferson's granddaughter, Virginia, and attributed to him as “James, cook at Monticello”.

Thomas Jefferson, February 20, 1796, Kitchen Furniture Inventory, Library of Congress

As a result of his influence, French culinary techniques and dishes became popular in the United States during the early 19th century. Foods like macaroni and cheese, french fries and ice cream are attributed to his culinary prowess. Although little may be known about his life, many are committed to remembering his legacy. The James Hemings Society, founded by Ashbell McElveen, was created to study, document, educate, and preserve African Americans’ contributions to American iconic food and drink and ensure Hemings’ work will never be forgotten.

Snow Eggs Recipe

(A transcript of Hemings' original recipe embedded at the top of the email)

Take 10 eggs, separate the yolks from the whites and beat the whites as you do for the savoy cake, till you can turn the vessel bottom upward without their leaving it;

when they are well beaten put in 2 spoonfuls of powdered sugar and a little orange flower water or rosewater if you prefer it.

Put a pint of milk in a saucepan with 6 oz sugar and orange flower or rose water;

when your milk boils, take the whites, spoonful by spoonful and do them in the boiling milk;

when sufficiently poached, take

them out and lay them on a sieve.

Take out a part of the milk, according to the thickness you

wish to give the custard.

Beat up the yolks and stir them in the remainder;

as soon as it thickens take the mixture from the fire;

strain it through a sieve; dish up your whites and pour the custard over them.

A little wine stirred in is a great improvement.

– James, cook at Monticello.

Reflection Questions

• Much of the life and legacy of enslaved people is lost from the history books. Consider: what other stories might have gone untold?
• What’s your favorite food? What’s the story behind how it became a part of your cultural experience?
• People were not slaves, they were enslaved. This is an important distinction in how we discuss those impacted by slavery. Here’s a bit more about this distinction. Why is it important to use accurate language to describe times of slavery?

Learn More

• READ: How Many U.S. Presidents Owned Enslaved People? History >
• WATCH: “James Hemings: The Enslaved Chef Who Revolutionized American Cuisine” a short educational video on the life and legacy of James Hemings. Untold Histories on YouTube >
• WATCH: “James Hemings and the Birth of American Haute Cuisine, a conversation and documentary screening of Hemings’ impact on the Black culinary scene. Museum of Food and Drink (MOFAD) >
• WATCH: “James Hemings: Ghost in America's Kitchen” a full-length documentary on Hemings’ life. Amazon >